The Guide to Men's Eyewear, Part I: History and Style Overview

The Guide to Men's Eyewear, Part I: History and Style Overview

HomeGentleman's GazetteThe Guide to Men's Eyewear, Part I: History and Style Overview
The Guide to Men's Eyewear, Part I: History and Style Overview
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Basic anatomy of what makes glasses.

As you can imagine, they are made up of several different parts that work together. Most pairs usually consist of a pair of rims that attach the lenses. A bridge that connects the rims and branches that extend over the ears. Depending on the style of glasses, other details may also exist, including nose pads, temple tips, or a brow bar on top. But we will return to these details later.

First, let's talk about the different construction materials that can be used to make glasses, starting with plastic. Cellulose acetate is a plastic polymer made from wood pulp and then molded into sheets. Individual frames are then cut from these sheets and polished by hand. This is a bit more labor intensive than using simple extruded plastic, so that's where a small portion of the extra cost comes from. Additionally, acetate is stiffer, heavier, and more durable than standard plastic, which is why it's a good choice for eyeglasses.

Multi-colored designs like tortoiseshell look much better than acetate since the design was created on a whole sheet. If it were extruded plastic, you would have to paint that pattern, which usually doesn't look as nice.

Next, metal. You will often see glasses made from titanium, aluminum, or various alloys. They are generally corrosion resistant, which is a good thing if they are going to be placed on faces that are likely to sweat. Metal is particularly well suited to thinner frames, particularly round or rectangular shapes.

Finally here, let's talk about natural frames. Although they are a little harder to find and generally more expensive, you can still find natural frames and materials such as wood, bone or shell.

Horn is another option that often comes from a buffalo or deer. They are usually hand carved and then polished, and because of their ridges and matte finish, they end up being a very elegant choice.

Tortoiseshell is largely illegal these days. Any shell collected after 1973 is not allowed to be sold, but if you're particularly determined, you'll probably be able to find a pair at a vintage retailer.

Next, let's talk about some recommended eyeglass styles.

First, let's talk about browline glasses which are defined by a strong, heavy frame along the browline and on the temples. The frame is completed at the bottom with fine metal wires which have the overall effect of drawing the eye upwards towards the more defined part of the top. Round metal frames have typically been the choice of counterculture, youth culture, and other types of resistance movements, and in recent years we've started to see them re-enter the mainstream. Favored by figures such as Steve Jobs, Gandhi and John Lennon, they are a choice for someone who feels a little outside the mainstream. Unlike round metal frames, round plastic frames with a keyhole bridge are the epitome of traditional, elegant menswear. These frames can add maturity to young faces, but unlike browlines, they are also great for seasoned gentlemen.
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